Sunday, January 13, 2013

Boeuf Bourgignon


Could not stop impersonating Julia Child while making this! Boeuf bourguignon!

I must issue the disclaimer that this is not a true production of the dish, because I did not use burgundy, as I was already slightly breaking my bank in the making of this and the only bottle I could find (after visiting both Fresh Market and my neighborhood store) was $40. I'm a little disappointed with myself on that note, but I still used a French pinot noir and the sauce was aaaabsolutely fantastic. So I would say it's a perfectly acceptable substitute!

My favorite part about making this was getting to make a bouquet garni for the first time.


I began by placing the diced salt pork and rind in a saucepan, covering them in water, and bringing it to a boil for a couple of minutes. Then I drained the pan and set aside the diced pork.

For the bouquet, I unfurled two 22-inch lengths of cheesecloth and then unfolded each to make a 22x8-inch piece. I stacked the cloths and draped them over a medium bowl. Then I added my lovely aromatics (onions, carrots, crushed garlic cloves, thyme, parsley, black peppercorns, bay leaves, oh my!), bundled up the cheesecloth and secured it (twine would have been ideal, but I "elected" to use floss. Substitutions, my friends!)

I love cooking when it's actually light out! When my boyfriend saw this picture, he thought for a second I had bundled up one of the cats for an "artistic" shot. Cat Sacks - they won't catch on.
I placed the bouquet in my Dutch oven and preheated my (American) oven to 300.

Then I set my cast-iron skillet over medium heat and sizzled up some salt pork till it was browned and crispy (about 12 minutes.)



I made sure to press down on the pieces as I cooked them to render the fat.

After I added the pork to the Dutch oven, I poured out all but two teaspoons of the rendered fat--then I set these teaspoons to the side.

Next came the beef. After slicing my beef into two-inch chunks, I patted the pieces dry and seasoned them with salt and pepper.

I handled the browning in two rounds, spreading the pieces out in a single layer in my cast-iron (with the heat now raised to high) and flipping them over once or twice to make sure they browned on all sides.

During the slicing process.




After the first batch, I put the beef into the Dutch oven, added half a cup of water to the skillet and swirled it around, scraping up the browned bits. This too went into the pot.


I then browned the second batch of beef (adding the reserved fat from the salt pork). After adding it to the burgeoning stew, I repeated the water process and poured the resulting liquid into the pot.

I returned the skillet to the burner and set the heat to medium. I melted four tablespoons of butter, then whisked in the flour once the butter ceased foaming.

Then the mixture had turned golden (with a nutty aroma), I whisked in the low-sodium chicken broth and 1 1/2 cups of water. I raised the heat to medium-high and stirred the liquid as it simmered.

Once it was thickened, I poured it into the Dutch oven--along with 3 cups of wine, tomato paste, salt and pepper.





I finally turned the heat on under my Dutch oven, setting it to high. Once the liquid was boiling, I covered the pot and transferred it to the preheated oven (like Russian stacking dolls, these ovens are!)

Then I cleaned my kitchen and listened to Frightened Rabbit, because I am a sometimes-responsible young lady (with a tendency to let her musical horizons stagnate, because Van Morrison often makes other tunes unnecessary. But I'm growing!) and this stage of the recipe takes 2 1/2 - 3 hours.

When it was finally time to exonerate the oven from its larger oven prison (TWO-FOUR-SIX-OH-ONNNNNE! - though I do not mean to imply that the things I cook are miserable), I set it on the (off) stove and removed the bouquet garni, setting it in a mesh strainer above the pot and essentially juicing the remaining liquid into the stew.

I scooped out the beef with a slotted spoon and set it aside.


I let the liquid rest in the pot for fifteen minutes before skimming off the fat.

Then I brought it to a boil over medium-high heat. Without reducing the heat, I let it simmer--giving it the occasional stir--for about 20 minutes. Ultimately, the sauce should be reduced to about three cups and thickened slightly.

I got to work making the garnish. I used fresh pearl onions, boiling them for a few minutes and then rinsing with cold water so I could easily squeeze them out of their peels. It might be easier, though, to buy the frozen, already-peeled version. Your choice!

Using a medium skillet, I mixed the pearl onions, butter, sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 cup water and brought them to a boil over high heat.

Then I covered the skillet and reduced the heat to medium-low, letting them cook for 5 minutes until the onions were tender.


I uncovered the skillet and raised the heat to high again, letting all the liquid dissipate.

Then I stirred in the mushrooms and another quarter-teaspoon of salt and let the vegetables brown for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.



I set the vegetables aside before adding water to the skillet and scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pan (poured this into the stew as well.)

Once the sauce was reduced and thickened to my liking, I reduced the heat to medium-low and added the beef, vegetables, brandy, and the last of the bottle of wine. (No worries--we got another bottle to enjoy with the meal.)

Then I covered the pot once more and heated the stew through for five minutes.

After convincing my cat that she didn't want to lounge on my placemat, we sat down to dine.

I can't resist now...bon appetit!

Beef Bourguignon (adapted from Cooks Illustrated)
Serves 6.

Bouquet Garni

2 medium carrots, roughly chopped
2 medium onions, roughly chopped
1 head garlic, cloves separated and crushed but not peeled
10 sprigs fresh parsley, quartered
6 sprigs fresh thyme
12 black peppercorns
2 bay leaves, crumbled
1/2 oz dried porcini mushrooms (optional)
Salt pork rind

Stew:


6 oz. salt pork cut into 1x1/4x1/4 inch pieces (rind removed and reserved for bouquet)
4 lbs. chuck roast, trimmed of fat and cut into 2-inch chunks
Salt
Pepper
Water
4 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup flour
1 3/4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
3 cups burgundy or pinot noir (a true burgundy is obviously ideal, but you can't always break the bank)
1 teaspoon tomato paste

Garnish:
10 oz. white mushrooms (whole if small, halved if medium, quartered if large)
36 white pearl onions, peeled
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon sugar
3/4 cup water
2 tablespoons brandy (or cognac)
2 tablespoons minced parsley




Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Stuffed Creole Tomatoes


Mmmm, I've added a new delicious side to my repertoire.

I picked up these Creole tomatoes at the farmers' market on Saturday. They were on the small end of the spectrum, but it was no matter. I just allotted two for a serving, though I'm sure with larger tomatoes, one would be sufficient.

Another note on the tomatoes: I'm not sure about the availability of this variety, but if you're not available to procure the Creole tomatoes, feel free to substitute with beefsteak or what have you. It shouldn't make too much of a difference.

I began by hollowing out my tomatoes--using a serrated knife to cut out a square around the stem of the tomato, then twisting out the whole top. Because these tomatoes were so small, I mainly used my fingers to remove the pulp.


At this point, you can either reserve the pulp to mix into the filling, or you can forget to do this and use Bloody Mary mix instead. I "chose" option B, and it was amazing.

But that's a little ways down the road. I preheated my oven to 350 and prepped the ingredients for the rest of my filling.

Hollowed tomatoes, roughly chopped mozzarella, garlic, onions, diced turkey breast
I heated a 12-inch skillet to medium-high, added a bit of olive oil, and then threw on the onions and garlic. (I wish society would allow me to perfume myself with the scent of simmering onions and garlic. Just a little dab behind the ears and on the nape. I would make the people so famished, oh, how they would hunger. (Benefit two: no vampires.))

Once they had softened, I added in the diced turkey breast and sauteed it until it began to brown.



Then I added in salt, pepper, oregano, thyme, cayenne, and about a tablespoon and a half of Bloody Mary mix. I stirred up the ingredients to combine, then took it off heat and stirred in the mozzarella.

I spritzed a rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray and then positioned the hollowed tomatoes.

I de-hollowed them with delicious filling and sprinkled breadcrumbs over each tomato.



Then I topped them with a sliver of butter and placed the baking sheet in the oven for about 20 minutes, until the filling started to bubble.

These babies accompanied--and threatened to outshine--filet mignon (seared in my cast-iron skillet and finished in the oven) and smashed potatoes (prepared by my wonderfully helpful--and grateful--boyfriend!)

Stuffed Creole Tomatoes
Serves 2 (as a side)

5 small creole tomatoes (or 2 - 3 large tomatoes)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 turkey breast slices, diced
1/3 cup fresh mozzarella, shredded
Salt
Pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme (next time, I'd love to use fresh herbs)
1 teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch of cayenne
Breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon butter

 

Sunday, December 2, 2012

Mahjouba (Algerian Crepes)


It's the weekend, which means I actually have time to cook!

Last night we went to Texas de Brazil, that glorious house of delicious steak bites and Parmesan chicken and garlic-crusted pork and an unfairly vast salad bar. We kind of jumped the gun on celebrating Andy's graduation, Christmas, and two and a half years together (which have been amazing, and I absolutely can't wait for whatever's next.)

But this evening I rejoiced in cooking for myself again.

I saw this recipe on Saveur.com, and I set out to recreate it as best I could with the help of Fresh Market. I was unable to find semolina or red Holland chiles, but I substituted brown rice flour and Anaheim green peppers.

I began by chopping up the onions, carrots, and chile.


Then I put the mixture into my food processor and chopped the vegetables up until they were finely processed.


I heated up three tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high and added the vegetable mixture. I cooked them, stirring often, for about twenty minutes--until all the components were very soft and tender.

Then I stirred in the tomato paste. After a few minutes, I added the freshly crushed tomatoes to the mixture. I continued to cook in a very stirry fashion for about forty to forty-five minutes.


Meanwhile, I made the crepe dough. I combined the rice flour, salt, and water in a bowl, kneading it together in a large ball. I then formed six smaller balls out of the motherlode.


I froze four of these balls--planning to make more crepes soon with different fillings! One with ham, swiss, dijon, and a bechamel sauce sounds absolutely delicious--and let the others rest under loosely draped plastic wrap for thirty minutes.

Once the filling was done caramelizing, I stirred in the chopped cilantro and set it aside to cool.


I took the dough balls one at a time and placed them on a (highly) floured work surface, sprinkling more flour on top, because these buggers were sticky.

I used the heel of my palm to press the dough out, flattening it into a vague rectangle about 10x12.

Mid-pressing. I would never commit any dough-wielding crimes, because the fingerprints would be a nightmare.
Once the dough was fully spread out and paper-thin, I placed 1/2 cup of filling in the center and spread it into a smaller rectangle.

I then gently lifted the long sides of the rectangle with a flour-dusted pastry cutter and folded them over the filling.


Then I folded over the shorter sides. I heated up a 12" skillet to medium and carefully placed the crepe seam-side down, toasting it for about eight minutes on each side.


And here we have it! A nice, fairly healthy and exotic Sunday night dinner!

Mahjouba (Algerian Crepes)

Filling:
2 medium yellow onions, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
1 Anaheim pepper, de-stemmed, de-seeded, and chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 14-oz can whole, peeled tomatoes

Dough:
3 cups brown rice flour
1 3/4 cups water
2 tablespoons salt


Sunday, November 25, 2012

Rice-Seared Trout with Sage and Walnut Butter



I've been subsisting off leftovers since Thanksgiving, like most thankful Americans, but I broke the streak last night by going out for delicious Lebanese food with my boyfriend. And now tonight I've actually cooked for myself!

I combined a couple of trout recipes I looked up, did a little improvising on my own, and came up with this little beauty. Flavorful, juicy, and--rumor has it--healthier than turkey, cornbread dressing, and spinach madeleine.

First I made the sauce to be drizzled over the cooked fish. I combined the ingredients (listed at the bottom of the recipe) and whisked them up right nicely. The sauce was where I found myself improvising most, adding ingredients to taste. The grapefruit juice--for instance--was on a whim, but it worked wonderfully!

I set aside the sauce and used my food processor--or rather, the food processor attachment to my immersion blender--to grind up the jasmine rice. This stage of the recipe made me realize that if I ran a meth lab, it totally would have blown up my neighborhood a long time ago. With much lower stakes, I merely had a kitchen floor and counters full of grains. When my spice grinder was giving me far too many unattractive arm muscles--and consuming a lot of time--in producing ground rice, I attempted to use my immersion blender in a cereal bowl full of rice.

No bueno.

I got a deeper bowl!

...still no bueno.

I realized the rice needed to be safely contained to control its eruptions, which is when I arrived upon the absolutely ingenious idea of the food processor. It's fortunate that my blades are much sharper than their wielder.

I heated up a skillet to medium high, added the rice, and toasted those jumpy buggers.



I placed the toasted rice to the side to cool.

Then I took my cast-iron skillet and melted the butter over medium-high heat, adding in the sage chiffonade at the same time.


Once the butter was completely melted, I added in the walnut pieces. Once the butter had browned, I strained it into a bowl and discarded the sage and walnuts.


I took each filet and seasoned it with salt and pepper.



Then I coated it in butter and dredged it in the toasted rice. (I chose to keep the skin on my filet, but everyone else had their filets skinned.)

I reheated my cast-iron to medium-high, then added two filets at a time, skin-side down. Pressing down on the filets with a spatula, I seared them for about five minutes (until the skin was opaque) and then flipped them over and gave them another 10 - 20 seconds.

After that, I simply drizzled the fish with the sauce I'd made earlier and it was ready to serve! I kept the sides simple--a steamer bag of shelled edamame and toasted ciabatta bread. A lovely return to the kitchen, all in all.

Rice-Seared Trout
4 trout filets
1 cup uncooked jasmine rice
Salt
Pepper

Sage and Walnut Butter
1/2 cup sage leaves, chiffonade-style
1/2 cup toasted walnut pieces
6 tablespoons butter

Sauce
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon sesame seed oil
2 tablespoons grated ginger
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons grapefruit juice




Monday, October 29, 2012

Eggs Hussarde (Classic New Orleans Breakfast)


I attended the Louisiana Book Festival this past weekend, which was coupled with gorgeous, brisk weather. I got to spend the day running into friends and exploring the State Capitol.





In addition to all that, I picked up a copy of Brennan's New Orleans Cookbook, published in 1961 and jam-packed with recipes from the historic New Orleans restaurant. I love old cookbooks, even if I frequently find myself gaping at the amounts of butter called for and clucking, "Okay, Mrs. Antoine Deshotels, maybe not THAT much."

This recipe I chose for this morning is essentially Eggs Benedict with the addition of marchand de vin sauce and a tomato slice.

The key here was timing, with making the sauces from scratch and poaching the eggs. I started with the marchand de vin sauce. My dad used to make this for beef tenderloin, and it's a rich, silky beaut of a sauce.

First I melted the butter (so much butter, so I cut down on it slightly), and then added the chopped mushrooms, onions, shallots, garlic, and ham.


I sauteed these for about 7 minutes, until the onions were golden-brown, and then I added in the two tablespoons of flour and Tony Chachere's seasoning (if this isn't available in your area, add salt, pepper, and a dash of cayenne).

I let the mixture cook for another 8 or so, minutes, then added in the red wine and beef stock. I brought the mixture to a boil and then let it simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Normally this would be the time when I'd enjoy a glass of wine or watch something on TV, but it was 11:30 in the morning and I also had to get moving on the other components of the dish.

First the hollandaise sauce. I made a double boiler by filling a medium saucepan with water, and heating it up to medium. Then I fitted a stainless steel bowl over the top of the pan and added the four separated egg yolks and lemon juice and beat them together lightly. I didn't want the water to come to a boil and cook the sauce too quickly, so I monitored the heat and kept it fairly low.



Then I added the butter (diced up so it would melt more easily) and stirred the sauce almost-constantly with a wooden spoon, adding the butter in chunks.



Once the butter was stirred in, I added salt and pepper and let it cook on low until the sauce had thickened.

Meanwhile, I heated up two tablespoons of vegetable oil in a medium skillet and added the Canadian bacon slices and asparagus, sprinkling them with Tony Chachere's.

I also filled a large saucepan with water and a tablespoon of distilled white vinegar, then brought it to boil for the poached eggs.

The ham cooked for about three minutes on each side, and the asparagus cooked for about a minute longer than that. I set those aside and added in the tomato slices.


As the tomatoes cooked (about 3 - 4 minutes on each side), I took both the sauces off heat and set them to the side.

Then I began poaching the eggs, taking them one at a time. I cracked each egg into a measuring cup (1/2-cup size would be best), then brought the cup close to the surface of the water and poured the egg gently into the pan. Each egg took about 4 - 5 minutes to poach.

As each egg cooked, I compiled my ingredients into the final product, creating a little bed for the poached egg to nestle in once it was done.

First I placed a toasted English muffin (and a side of asparagus) on each plate.

Then I added the Canadian bacon.


Next came the marchand de vin sauce.



Then the browned tomato slice.


Then I carefully removed the poached egg from the water with a slotted spoon and placed it on top of the tomato.

Finally, I spooned hollandaise sauce over the egg.



Then I died of happiness.

Eggs Hussarde (Classic New Orleans Breakfast)
(ingredients listed serve 2, though each sauce creates more than enough for additional eggs, tomatoes, etc.)

2 English muffins, toasted
2 slices Canadian bacon
2 tomato slices
Tony Chachere's seasoning (or substitute mixture of salt, pepper, cayenne, and garlic powder)
Marchand de vin sauce
Hollandaise sauce
1 bunch asparagus, rinsed and dried
2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Marchand de vin sauce
1 stick butter
1/2 cup onions, finely chopped
1/3 cup shallots, finely chopped
1/3 cup cremini mushrooms, finely chopped
1/2 cup minced ham
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon Tony Chachere's seasoning
1/2 cup red wine
3/4 cup beef stock

Hollandaise sauce 
4 egg yolks, separated
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 1/2 sticks butter
Salt
Pepper




Monday, October 8, 2012

Brazilian Fish Stew (Moqueca)


Ooooh, boy. What a mix of deliciously tangy catfish with fresh vegetables and sweet coconut milk. Each bite was impressively flavorful.

It was so nice out today that I didn't get started cooking till it was dark out, just because I wanted to sit outside and bask in the sun I rarely get to enjoy at work.

Then I got to chop up vegetables, drink wine, listen to The Mountain Goats, and hang out with my lovely boyfriend--so I didn't necessarily neeeed the fish stew to make my day, but I welcomed it anyhow. I have a generous spirit.



Once those on Dice/Slice Row had been dispensed of, I tossed the fish pieces with lime juice, olive oil, half the minced garlic, salt and pepper, then set them aside.

I heated up two tablespoons of olive oil in my Dutch oven, setting it over medium-high heat. Once the oil was heated, I added the remaining garlic, the large diced onion, and half the diced green pepper. I cooked these until they were tender and translucent (about four minutes.)

Then I added the diced tomato, cooking it down for five minutes. As it began to mush, I poured in the coconut milk, wine, and vegetable oil. The mixture came to a boil, at which point I added the fish and cooked it for about six to eight minutes.

I then added remaining veggies (sliced tomato, sliced onion, and other half of the green pepper) and stirred to combine. I covered the oven and let it cook for another five minutes--don't reduce the heat!

I then removed the lid, stirred in the cilantro and basil, and seasoned the dish (after tasting) with salt and pepper.

Ladled it over rice, snapped some pretty pictures, and then sat down to enjoy the stew with the latest episode of Homeland. Perfect.



Brazilian Fish Stew
Serves 3 - 4.

Ingredients:
1 1/2 lb boneless, skinless catfish fillets, cut into 2-in. pieces
2 large tomatoes, one diced and one thinly sliced
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
8 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons lime juice
3 tablespoons olive oil (one for fish, two for cooking)
1 cup coconut milk
1 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup cilantro, minced
1/2 cup basil, minced
Salt
Pepper
2 cups white rice, cooked